Featured Essay

What thread count actually tells you about a shirt.

There is no number on a clothing tag more abused than thread count. Bedsheet brands have been at it for years; shirt brands have been catching up. So before you next buy a dress shirt on the strength of a "120s" or "200s" claim, here is what those numbers should — and should not — promise you.

Thread count, properly defined, is the count of yarns per square inch of woven cloth. The number on the label, however, is usually something quite different: it is the "yarn count" — a measure of how fine the individual yarn is. A 120s yarn is finer than an 80s; a 200s is finer still. The finer the yarn, the more of them fit into a square inch — and the lighter and silkier the resulting cloth.

Above 100s you start to feel a difference in the hand. Above 140s the cloth begins to read as luxury even before you put it on. At 200s it is almost translucent and demands care. Everything we make begins above 120s. We will tell you why on every cloth we offer.

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From the Archive

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Care & Keeping

How to care for a fine cotton shirt.

The fastest way to ruin a great shirt is the wash. Here is what we tell every customer who picks up their first Signatario — water temperature, detergent, drying, and the underrated business of pressing.

Collars

The collar guide every gentleman should read.

Cutaway, spread, semi-spread, button-down, club. The collar is what sells the shirt before anyone reads the cloth. A primer on which to wear when, with which tie, and which to avoid altogether.

Fabric Notes

Poplin, oxford, twill, voile — a short primer.

Four weaves do most of the work in a dress-shirt wardrobe. We walk through each: what it feels like, what it looks like under a jacket, and which weave belongs at which moment of your day.

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Fit

How to tell whether a shirt fits — in 60 seconds.

Five places to look in a mirror before you commit to a shirt. We cover shoulder seam, chest pull, sleeve length, body length, and the often-ignored collar gap. With or without a jacket.

The Atelier

Why we cut shoulders in two halves.

The split-yoke shoulder is one of the most misunderstood signatures of a well-made shirt. A short essay on what it is, why we use it, and what it changes about how the shirt sits across your back.

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Bespoke

The language of a bespoke order.

If you have never commissioned a shirt before, the vocabulary can feel like its own dialect. Yokes, plackets, gauntlets, gussets — translated, and what to actually ask for in a first meeting.

PrimerRead →
Stay in Touch

One letter, every other month.

A short note from the atelier — new cloths from the mills, an essay or two, an invitation when we open the floor for a private trunk show. No promotions, no clutter.

Begin with a single shirt.

Browse the collection, or come see the cloth in person at our Powai atelier.

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